Le Clos de Vougeot
Le Grand Maupertui
Portrait of an appellation: Clos-Vougeot
Considered since time began as being one of the greatest wines in Burgundy and witness to the region’s Cistercian past, Clos de Vougeot is also a model example of Burgundian organisation. It alone embodies all the complexities of the Burgundy wine region and all its subtleties.
Exclusive property of monks for over six centuries, it is now in the hands of over 80 owners grouped at the heart of a protective body, which provides a model for other appellations.
In 1098, Robert de Molesmes founded a monastery in a marshy region, overgrown with reeds (“cistels” in old French). Rapidly, from 1110 onwards, the Abbey of “Cîteaux” benefited from donations, usually in the form of neglected land which would soon be turned in to vineyards. The last acquisition dates back to 1336.
The surrounding wall clearly dates back to the 13th century -100 years after the foundation of the abbey – at a time when one already spoke of “Clausum de Vougeot”. It is certain that the boundaries have not changed since the 14th century.
Extrait du livre de Karen Blixen “Le festin de Babette” (Gallimard)
Nine centuries of history
Of course, such an area built up from numerous donations created a walled vineyard or “Clos” composed of several climats, quite a rare phenomenon in Burgundy. Among these climats were la Vigne Blanche, les Petits-Vougeots, la Perrière, Les Cras or Crais, aux Orveaux, aux Echezeaux, les Eschonay, le Quartier-d’Escoiles, le Porchier, le Pertuis-au-Cygne, Musigny-Melot, Devant-lai-Maison, à la porte Saint-Martin, le Conroy des Echezeaux, la Combotte, le Quartier de Maire-au-Musigny, le Buchilier, aux Côtes, le Quartier du Rites, au Chatrel
All of these were absorbed by others which were still identifiable in the 19th century : Petit et Grand Maupertuis, Maret-Haut et Bas, Planté-l’Abbé, Garenne, Musigny-Chioures, Dix-Journaux, Quatorze-Journaux, Montiottes-Hautes et Basses, Baudes-Saint-Martin, North and South. Today, all the names of these climats have disappeared – the AOC recognising only one wine and on one single parcel (contrary to the Corton appellation which still groups together several climats).
As for the castle, the cellar and fermenting room date back to the 12th century and remained in full working use until 1551, when the Abbot of Cîteaux had the buildings converted by adding a more luxurious section, which was never completed: this is how the castle remains to this day.
Until the French Revolution, the Clos de Vougeot and its castle remained the exclusive property of Cîteaux Abbey.
In 1789, a decree placed all ecclesiastical possessions at the nation’s disposal. The administration decided to sell the Clos de Vougeot as a single block.
It continued to survive 100 years as a monopoly under a management closely resembling that practised by Cîteaux.
From a Parisian wood merchant, to bankers including Bonaparte’s personal advisor to goods merchants – the inheritors were unable to assume the administrative duties and put the famous Clos up for sale.
In 1882, Vougeot was hit by phylloxera and the majority of the Clos’ owners treated their ill vines with carbon sulphide. The affected vines were pulled up and the grafted vines replanted deeply and in rows.
In 1889, it became the property of six Burgundian merchants. Léonce Bocquet became owner of the Château and 15 hectares of vineyard. Then, with the subsequent successions and divisions, the plots of vineyard became smaller and today, apart from the Château which belongs to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin since 1945, 85 proprietors share the Clos’ 134 plots!
L’usage à la Confrérie est d’appeler les vignes “Clos de Vougeot” – car c’est un lieu, un clos, dans Vougeot – et le vin “Clos Vougeot” par raccourci de langage.
A single grape variety
In the second half of the 15th century, a huge number of insects decimated the entire Burgundian vineyard. Monks replanted the Clos mainly with Pinot Noir, but also with Pinot Gris and Chardonnay.
The white grapes produced reputable white wines which were also mixed with black grapes to refine the taste. There was even at one point a “Champagnisation” of the Clos de Vougeot red wines : one menu at the turn of the 20th century offered “Clos de Vougeot mousseux rosé extra dry reserve 1898”.
In the 18th century, monks were the pioneers of the enhancement of the alcohol degree with cane sugar or honey (forerunners of Chaptalization).
The use of only one single grape variety only came about in the 19th century.